Thursday, December 29, 2005
Blue-Line Diazo Paper Line Added to EngineerSupply Product Line
In the past several days, EngineerSupply has added Dietzgen Brand Blue-Line Diazo Paper to its line or products. For those that don't know, Diazo Paper is used to make blueline prints (also known as blueprints). These are the real "blue" colored prints and are made using blueline machines such as Rotolite, Diazit, and ReproTechnology Brand name machines. Blueline machines can be found here.
Tuesday, December 13, 2005
EngineerSupply.com announces major website redesign
EngineerSupply, a leader in Engineering, Architectural, Surveying, and Construction Tools and Supplies announces a major website redesign. The new design allows for easier navigation, and a higher focus on customer service. The new website for EngineerSupply also allows for instant brand browsing, and a direct focus on "Deal Alert" which is what EngineerSupply uses to send coupons, specials, closeouts, overstock and free shipping offers by email.
Thursday, December 01, 2005
EngineerSupply now Sells Dahle Paper Shredders
EngineerSupply now Sells Dahle Brand Paper Shredders.
Everyone knows that secure information should never fall into the wrong hands. Dahle paper shredders are your best line of defense in preventing unauthorized access to secure information. Whether it's personal credit card statements or Top Secret government documents, EngineerSupply has a shredder that will meet your needs.
With models of Personal Shredders, Small Office Shredders, Office Shredders, Departmental Shredders, High Capacity Shredders, High Security Shredders, and Deployment Shredders, the amount of use and level of security needed can be met.
Friday, November 18, 2005
EngineerSupply now has Stanley Tools TLM Laser Measurer
EngineerSupply now carries and sells Stanley Tools. One specific Stanley made tool is the new Tru-Laser Distance Measuring Device. It's "Tru" Laser Measuring (hence TLM name) at the press of a button. Just point the laser, press the button, and measure. It easily handles one-person measuring, saving both time and money.
The TLM is offered in three models for the consumer to choose from: the TLM-100 Basic, The TLM-200 Professional, and the TLM-300 Surveyor. All three TLM models rely on laser, not sound, to measure distances.
The EngineerSupply Product Team has used the TLM and is very impressed with the quality of this product. Each model has a solid feel, the buttons feel nice and secure and not cheap. The menu is easy to understand and very impressive with how it's designed and completely usable. The TLM is a well-designed handy product.
The TLM is offered in three models for the consumer to choose from: the TLM-100 Basic, The TLM-200 Professional, and the TLM-300 Surveyor. All three TLM models rely on laser, not sound, to measure distances.
The EngineerSupply Product Team has used the TLM and is very impressed with the quality of this product. Each model has a solid feel, the buttons feel nice and secure and not cheap. The menu is easy to understand and very impressive with how it's designed and completely usable. The TLM is a well-designed handy product.
EngineerSupply now has a new product, the "TrussFile".
EngineerSupply now has a new product, the "TrussFile" which is great for storing and trasporting blueprints and rolled documents.
"The TrussFile" a stackable document roll file storage solution. An excellent system for active or permanent storage of blueprints, drawings, and any large rolled document. The modular design also allows easy relocation in office, vertical use, or use in a vehicle.
"The TrussFile" a stackable document roll file storage solution. An excellent system for active or permanent storage of blueprints, drawings, and any large rolled document. The modular design also allows easy relocation in office, vertical use, or use in a vehicle.
Saturday, October 22, 2005
Construction Estimates and Blueprint Take-Offs
If you're job entails Construction Estimates and Blueprint Take-Offs, then you are familiar with taking the time to scale a blueprint or some type of document in order to get measurements. Measurements that you sum up so the contractor or builder will know what to order and how much. Some plans come with these measurements such as quantity, square footage, linear footage, cubic yards, board feet, and so on, and some plans do not. This is where your job comes in. You, the estimator, get these measurements as a service to your project or client.
As an estimator, you are familiar with Manual or Digitized Take off methods. We of course recommend the digitized method and recommend the use of tools like the Scalex Planwheel, and the Calculated Industries Scale Master II. Either of these tools will save you tons of time when performing construction estimates and blueprint take-offs. Basically, you select the scale that your drawing is drawn or printed to, then begin rolling the lines you want to sum or quantify.
If you want to automate the process even further, you can get an interface kit and connect the measuring tool with your computer. Most plan measuring tools like the Scalex Planwheel or the Calculated Industries Scale Master II will enter the information right into estimation software like TurtleSoft or Timberline, or even into a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet, but only if you have the interface kit to connect the tool to your computer.
Interface kits like the Scalex PlanWheel XLU Interface Kit or the Calculated Industries Scale Master II PC Interface Kit are usually sold separately. However, sometimes you can buy the Tool and Kit in a package like the Scalex "Deluxe Kit" Scale-Link USB or the Calculated Industries Scale Master II with PC Interface Kit.
If you're just wanting to buy a plan wheel and never have any intentions of connecting it to your computer, you can save money and buy a plan measuring wheel like the Scalex PlanWheel SA 00500.
Whatever you choose to perform blueprint take-offs, you can save some serious time (and money) when you automate the process and use a digital plan measuring device.
As an estimator, you are familiar with Manual or Digitized Take off methods. We of course recommend the digitized method and recommend the use of tools like the Scalex Planwheel, and the Calculated Industries Scale Master II. Either of these tools will save you tons of time when performing construction estimates and blueprint take-offs. Basically, you select the scale that your drawing is drawn or printed to, then begin rolling the lines you want to sum or quantify.
If you want to automate the process even further, you can get an interface kit and connect the measuring tool with your computer. Most plan measuring tools like the Scalex Planwheel or the Calculated Industries Scale Master II will enter the information right into estimation software like TurtleSoft or Timberline, or even into a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet, but only if you have the interface kit to connect the tool to your computer.
Interface kits like the Scalex PlanWheel XLU Interface Kit or the Calculated Industries Scale Master II PC Interface Kit are usually sold separately. However, sometimes you can buy the Tool and Kit in a package like the Scalex "Deluxe Kit" Scale-Link USB or the Calculated Industries Scale Master II with PC Interface Kit.
If you're just wanting to buy a plan wheel and never have any intentions of connecting it to your computer, you can save money and buy a plan measuring wheel like the Scalex PlanWheel SA 00500.
Whatever you choose to perform blueprint take-offs, you can save some serious time (and money) when you automate the process and use a digital plan measuring device.
LAN Racks and Stands
Does your office have a computer network where the servers are sitting in the floor? Cables are tangled and theres just not much organization? If so, we'd recommend getting a LAN Rack or Stand. They provide a high-tech and low-cost organization solution for housing LAN (local area network) system and provid for a centralized computer system. If you leave your servers on the floor, they could get damaged by foot traffic, water from floor mops, and dust.
Blueprint Identification Tags
We at EngineerSupply only come across products ever so often that seem to just make sense, cost very little to purchase, and offer benefits of becoming organized. We're talking about Roll Label Identification Tags for identifying blueprints and rolled drawings or documents.
When you roll a drawing or document, you instantly lose the ability to see what the drawing is unless you write on the outside of the roll. But, if you insert drawings into a roll file or storage box, you only see the ends of the drawings, which in no way can be identified unless you pull out the drawing and unroll it to see.
Blueprint Identification Tags solve the problem of an indentification crisis with your drawings, which saves time, which equals money.
When you roll a drawing or document, you instantly lose the ability to see what the drawing is unless you write on the outside of the roll. But, if you insert drawings into a roll file or storage box, you only see the ends of the drawings, which in no way can be identified unless you pull out the drawing and unroll it to see.
Blueprint Identification Tags solve the problem of an indentification crisis with your drawings, which saves time, which equals money.
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
Trained to Work, or Work to Train
After working a few years in various positions in surveying and engineering companies, I noticed how some people (coworkers) were trained to work. I noticed small things, that I utilized to tweak how I worked and interacted with coworkers. I've learned a few lessons that I can explain, so consider sticking around and reading some of my life experiences. You might find something that you can use yourself or pass along to someone.
YOU CAN TALK, JUST DONT STOP WORKING
--------------------------------------
When I was an instrument man for a small surveying firm, I was new, young, and being trained by the party chief that had twenty years of field experience and was quite the outdoorsman. It was very hot outside, and we were way out in the county surveying a large tract of land. I had a good set up and the party chief was about 300 feet ahead of me with a prism pole. The rodman, who was also new on the job, had stayed back for whatever reason and we began a conversation. The party chief stopped working, and started walking the 300 feet back to my set up where the rodman and myself stood. I wondered why doesnt he use the radio, and was confused on why he would walk 300 feet back to me when he just walked 300 out away from the set up location. When he arrived, he grabbed my forearm and got my attention and said "I don't care if you talk on the job, I actually encourage it, however if you talk, I would require that you don't stop working while you talk". That got my attention, and it stuck as a memory to this very day. Now, I see so many people that stop working when they start talking on the job. I think working is a skill, being able to work, while talking, is another skill.
NEVER LET ME SEE YOUR HANDS IN YOUR POCKETS
--------------------------------------
I had a similar situation happen when I was in high school and bagging groceries for a summer job. I was hired to "bag groceries", so the first day on the job, I bagged groceries until the customers slowed down enough to where there was no customers currently at the register. So, I figured I was hired to "bag groceries" and there were no groceries to bag at the moment, so I put my hands in my pocket and stood there. My first mistake. The manager come over and said "son you are doing something I dont ever want to see you do" and being so young I asked him "what is that?". He said "your hands need to come out of your pocket and there is always something to do. Grab a broom, sweep the floor, find something to do, never ever put your hands in your pocket". This was another subtle lesson that I have carried along with me throughout my career.
These two experiences have stuck with me for nearly 15 years now. While they are simple experiences and can apply to nearly anyone that has ever worked a job, I think maybe they stuck with me because they were highlighted as general rules of conduct on the job. I imagine many people are trained to work, but how many actually work to train? Meaning, how many people strive to get better and better on the job each day.
YOU CAN TALK, JUST DONT STOP WORKING
--------------------------------------
When I was an instrument man for a small surveying firm, I was new, young, and being trained by the party chief that had twenty years of field experience and was quite the outdoorsman. It was very hot outside, and we were way out in the county surveying a large tract of land. I had a good set up and the party chief was about 300 feet ahead of me with a prism pole. The rodman, who was also new on the job, had stayed back for whatever reason and we began a conversation. The party chief stopped working, and started walking the 300 feet back to my set up where the rodman and myself stood. I wondered why doesnt he use the radio, and was confused on why he would walk 300 feet back to me when he just walked 300 out away from the set up location. When he arrived, he grabbed my forearm and got my attention and said "I don't care if you talk on the job, I actually encourage it, however if you talk, I would require that you don't stop working while you talk". That got my attention, and it stuck as a memory to this very day. Now, I see so many people that stop working when they start talking on the job. I think working is a skill, being able to work, while talking, is another skill.
NEVER LET ME SEE YOUR HANDS IN YOUR POCKETS
--------------------------------------
I had a similar situation happen when I was in high school and bagging groceries for a summer job. I was hired to "bag groceries", so the first day on the job, I bagged groceries until the customers slowed down enough to where there was no customers currently at the register. So, I figured I was hired to "bag groceries" and there were no groceries to bag at the moment, so I put my hands in my pocket and stood there. My first mistake. The manager come over and said "son you are doing something I dont ever want to see you do" and being so young I asked him "what is that?". He said "your hands need to come out of your pocket and there is always something to do. Grab a broom, sweep the floor, find something to do, never ever put your hands in your pocket". This was another subtle lesson that I have carried along with me throughout my career.
These two experiences have stuck with me for nearly 15 years now. While they are simple experiences and can apply to nearly anyone that has ever worked a job, I think maybe they stuck with me because they were highlighted as general rules of conduct on the job. I imagine many people are trained to work, but how many actually work to train? Meaning, how many people strive to get better and better on the job each day.
Sunday, September 11, 2005
How to make Blueprints
How to make Blueprints
Lately, I have had a number of people asking how to make blueprints. First, I assume they already have their drawings ready, such as a print of a CAD drawing, or a drawing that was drawn by hand using manual drafting tools before CAD come to town and took over. It was 1985 or so when CAD became readily available and was just becoming popular and affordable around 1988 and 1990. I remember taking an AutoCad class in college years ago (about 1989). I had not yet accepted CAD over the manual way of producing drawings, by using a T-square or drafting machine, 45 & 60 degree triangles, a lead pointer and a few other tools of the trade. I had grown fond of being able to draw nearly anything my mind could think of with ease. Using CAD to me was what I considered a restriction instead of a benefit, but I soon began using CAD on the job, found out the benefits and went on to say that I would never hand-draw another drawing.
I realize that I have strayed a little bit from the subject, but I wanted to provide background information that will lead to the focus of this article, which is how to make blueprints. I feel that the additional information is relevant to this articles focus.
The above process I described, whether a CAD print or a manually-produced drawing, yields what is called a "reproducible" or sometimes known a your "originals". These are produced on vellum or some type of drawing medium that allows light to pass through it. When someone uses this type of media for their originals (also known as a reproducible), they typically intend to make a blueline blueprint. Meaning, a print that is actually bluish in color with darker blue lines than the blue background. Hence, the word "blueprint" was born. With that said, please note that a drawing on bond media cannot be copied via the blueline process. If a drawing on bond media is to be copied, one would need a large format Xerox machine, known as "large format copiers". There are multiple manufacturers that produce large format copiers, such as Xerox, Oce, K&E, Kip, and a few others. These copiers that are for making "copies of copies" and work well but will not make the blue drawing (blue background with darker blue lines) that I previously mentioned.
How Blueline Machines Work
Ever wonder about blueline machines and how they work? Let me repeat myself and state that the basic difference in a "blueline machine" and a "large format copy machine" is that blueline machines will only make a copy of a reproducible document such as vellum sometimes known a "trans-bond" or any material that will allow light to pass through it. This is not the only difference, but its the most noted or would be considered the fork in the road, where the two types of machines split.
Blueline machines all rely on the ability to pass light through the document that you are wanting to copy therefore the document you are making a copy of must have enough transparency for light to pass through it. I know this can be considered a negative for blueline machines, however, blueline machines make BLUE prints, not the black and white copies one would get with a large format copier. And, blueline prints are very impressive since they are blue and show off your work nicely. I know many old-timers and small architectural shops that don't like to use the large format copiers since they only do black and white. And, I have seen many shops that have both machines, a blueline, and a large format copier and use either depending on the desired results. Blueline machines use a diazo process and diazo paper that comes wrapped in a thick black plastic bag that is sealed to keep the light from exposing the paper. Most diazo paper is yellow in color when it comes out of the sealed bag, then turns blue when it has been ran through a blueline machine. The process that works to expose the paper is done with black lights and ammonia. Keep reading, we will explain more about this process and how blueline machines actually work.
The Actual Process of Making Copies of your Documents
Once you have your original documents ready to copy, plenty of diazo fresh unexposed paper on hand, and your diazo machine ready to go, you can begin to make your blueprints. Remember, your originals must be of some type of transparent medium, such as vellum, or trans-bond. You start with one original drawing and hold it up, and then place one sheet of diazo paper on top of it and match all edges so the two sheets appear as one. Then, you start feeding these two sheets into the machine into the lower roller section, the two will become exposed to ammonia and a black light and they will both come back out of the machine as the machines powered rollers slowly take the paper in and back out of the machine itself. When the two come out of the machine, you will then peel away your original and lay it aside. Then you will take the diazo paper and run it back through the machine on the top roller section. Please note that most diazo blueprint machines have a bottom roller and a top roller. You can continue to run the diazo paper through the top roller process over and over, several times depending on how new your ammonia is, the speed at which you exposed the first run when both sheets were held together, and how blue you want your print to become. It's an easy process and one you will perfect quickly, only after making a couple of blueprints. You will do this same process for each sheet in your drawing set, if you have multiple drawings to copy. Once all of your copies are made, some people run a single sheet of diazo paper through the machine without any original drawing in front of it, which exposes the entire sheet and makes the entire sheet a very dark blue. This sheet is then used to cut into slivers of paper the same height as your drawings, but only wide enough to make three folds in it, which makes a nice binder that you can staple on one end of your drawing set. Usually three to four staples with a heavy duty staple gun is all that is needed to secure the binder and hold your drawing set together.
Long Machine Life
The diazo process is inherently simple; the copiers have relatively few complicated parts and their maintenance is inexpensive. Most diazo copiers remain in use for well over 20 years with a high degree of reliability and little down time.
Low Cost Per Copy
Diazo copiers use readily available diazo-coated papers, vellums, and films, which are priced competitively with so-called "plain papers". The aqueous ammonia developer used by most diazo copier systems is low in cost and environmentally safe. Aqueous ammonia is nothing more than a stronger solution of clear household ammonia. Further, because the "brains" of the system is built into the paper or other media, the equipment itself requires little maintenance. There are no per-copy or click charges with most diazo copiers. They are very reliable pieces of equipment that provide years of useful life with little down time.
Ammonia is a completely natural substance
It is a basic building-block substance, which is crucial to life on our planet. It is composed of only two elements - nitrogen and hydrogen. Ammonia is produced by all animals, including humans, as a natural product of the metabolic process. Each person generates about 550 grams per year. According to one source, 500 families release more ammonia each year than 20,000 diazo copying machines. Ammonia is a natural product that poses no long term health hazard when used properly and is no threat to the environment. Ammonia helps reduce acid rain; it is not one of the substances responsible for the greenhouse effect; it is not a known carcinogen; and, aqueous ammonia solution is not flammable. Ammonia is recycled by rain and soil in a process known as the "Nitrogen Cycle". Accumulation in surface water, soil, or in the atmosphere does not occur. This naturally regenerating cycle is vital to our ecology and life as we know it on this planet.
The diazo process produces no ozone or health concerns
The diazo process relies entirely on natural substances to create high quality copies. There is no ozone, (a highly irritating poisonous gas) associated with diazo equipment. So-called "Sick-Building Syndrome" symptoms do not occur with diazo copiers, and all employees are safe from long-term health concerns. Dry diazo copying has reached a highly refined state of functionality. Diazo systems, by definition, require only natural substances for operations. The development process involves the release of only ammonia, moisture and heat energy. The diazo industry has integrated the exacting standards for ammonia handling, containment, and removal of nearly all ammonia odors. In addition, ammonia supply containers are safe and meet industry standard specifications.
Hopefully by reading this document, you have learned more about how blueprints are made, the process, and the equipment that is necessary. Well known brand names of diazo type copiers are Rotolite, Diazit, and ReproTechnology.
Lately, I have had a number of people asking how to make blueprints. First, I assume they already have their drawings ready, such as a print of a CAD drawing, or a drawing that was drawn by hand using manual drafting tools before CAD come to town and took over. It was 1985 or so when CAD became readily available and was just becoming popular and affordable around 1988 and 1990. I remember taking an AutoCad class in college years ago (about 1989). I had not yet accepted CAD over the manual way of producing drawings, by using a T-square or drafting machine, 45 & 60 degree triangles, a lead pointer and a few other tools of the trade. I had grown fond of being able to draw nearly anything my mind could think of with ease. Using CAD to me was what I considered a restriction instead of a benefit, but I soon began using CAD on the job, found out the benefits and went on to say that I would never hand-draw another drawing.
I realize that I have strayed a little bit from the subject, but I wanted to provide background information that will lead to the focus of this article, which is how to make blueprints. I feel that the additional information is relevant to this articles focus.
The above process I described, whether a CAD print or a manually-produced drawing, yields what is called a "reproducible" or sometimes known a your "originals". These are produced on vellum or some type of drawing medium that allows light to pass through it. When someone uses this type of media for their originals (also known as a reproducible), they typically intend to make a blueline blueprint. Meaning, a print that is actually bluish in color with darker blue lines than the blue background. Hence, the word "blueprint" was born. With that said, please note that a drawing on bond media cannot be copied via the blueline process. If a drawing on bond media is to be copied, one would need a large format Xerox machine, known as "large format copiers". There are multiple manufacturers that produce large format copiers, such as Xerox, Oce, K&E, Kip, and a few others. These copiers that are for making "copies of copies" and work well but will not make the blue drawing (blue background with darker blue lines) that I previously mentioned.
How Blueline Machines Work
Ever wonder about blueline machines and how they work? Let me repeat myself and state that the basic difference in a "blueline machine" and a "large format copy machine" is that blueline machines will only make a copy of a reproducible document such as vellum sometimes known a "trans-bond" or any material that will allow light to pass through it. This is not the only difference, but its the most noted or would be considered the fork in the road, where the two types of machines split.
Blueline machines all rely on the ability to pass light through the document that you are wanting to copy therefore the document you are making a copy of must have enough transparency for light to pass through it. I know this can be considered a negative for blueline machines, however, blueline machines make BLUE prints, not the black and white copies one would get with a large format copier. And, blueline prints are very impressive since they are blue and show off your work nicely. I know many old-timers and small architectural shops that don't like to use the large format copiers since they only do black and white. And, I have seen many shops that have both machines, a blueline, and a large format copier and use either depending on the desired results. Blueline machines use a diazo process and diazo paper that comes wrapped in a thick black plastic bag that is sealed to keep the light from exposing the paper. Most diazo paper is yellow in color when it comes out of the sealed bag, then turns blue when it has been ran through a blueline machine. The process that works to expose the paper is done with black lights and ammonia. Keep reading, we will explain more about this process and how blueline machines actually work.
The Actual Process of Making Copies of your Documents
Once you have your original documents ready to copy, plenty of diazo fresh unexposed paper on hand, and your diazo machine ready to go, you can begin to make your blueprints. Remember, your originals must be of some type of transparent medium, such as vellum, or trans-bond. You start with one original drawing and hold it up, and then place one sheet of diazo paper on top of it and match all edges so the two sheets appear as one. Then, you start feeding these two sheets into the machine into the lower roller section, the two will become exposed to ammonia and a black light and they will both come back out of the machine as the machines powered rollers slowly take the paper in and back out of the machine itself. When the two come out of the machine, you will then peel away your original and lay it aside. Then you will take the diazo paper and run it back through the machine on the top roller section. Please note that most diazo blueprint machines have a bottom roller and a top roller. You can continue to run the diazo paper through the top roller process over and over, several times depending on how new your ammonia is, the speed at which you exposed the first run when both sheets were held together, and how blue you want your print to become. It's an easy process and one you will perfect quickly, only after making a couple of blueprints. You will do this same process for each sheet in your drawing set, if you have multiple drawings to copy. Once all of your copies are made, some people run a single sheet of diazo paper through the machine without any original drawing in front of it, which exposes the entire sheet and makes the entire sheet a very dark blue. This sheet is then used to cut into slivers of paper the same height as your drawings, but only wide enough to make three folds in it, which makes a nice binder that you can staple on one end of your drawing set. Usually three to four staples with a heavy duty staple gun is all that is needed to secure the binder and hold your drawing set together.
Long Machine Life
The diazo process is inherently simple; the copiers have relatively few complicated parts and their maintenance is inexpensive. Most diazo copiers remain in use for well over 20 years with a high degree of reliability and little down time.
Low Cost Per Copy
Diazo copiers use readily available diazo-coated papers, vellums, and films, which are priced competitively with so-called "plain papers". The aqueous ammonia developer used by most diazo copier systems is low in cost and environmentally safe. Aqueous ammonia is nothing more than a stronger solution of clear household ammonia. Further, because the "brains" of the system is built into the paper or other media, the equipment itself requires little maintenance. There are no per-copy or click charges with most diazo copiers. They are very reliable pieces of equipment that provide years of useful life with little down time.
Ammonia is a completely natural substance
It is a basic building-block substance, which is crucial to life on our planet. It is composed of only two elements - nitrogen and hydrogen. Ammonia is produced by all animals, including humans, as a natural product of the metabolic process. Each person generates about 550 grams per year. According to one source, 500 families release more ammonia each year than 20,000 diazo copying machines. Ammonia is a natural product that poses no long term health hazard when used properly and is no threat to the environment. Ammonia helps reduce acid rain; it is not one of the substances responsible for the greenhouse effect; it is not a known carcinogen; and, aqueous ammonia solution is not flammable. Ammonia is recycled by rain and soil in a process known as the "Nitrogen Cycle". Accumulation in surface water, soil, or in the atmosphere does not occur. This naturally regenerating cycle is vital to our ecology and life as we know it on this planet.
The diazo process produces no ozone or health concerns
The diazo process relies entirely on natural substances to create high quality copies. There is no ozone, (a highly irritating poisonous gas) associated with diazo equipment. So-called "Sick-Building Syndrome" symptoms do not occur with diazo copiers, and all employees are safe from long-term health concerns. Dry diazo copying has reached a highly refined state of functionality. Diazo systems, by definition, require only natural substances for operations. The development process involves the release of only ammonia, moisture and heat energy. The diazo industry has integrated the exacting standards for ammonia handling, containment, and removal of nearly all ammonia odors. In addition, ammonia supply containers are safe and meet industry standard specifications.
Hopefully by reading this document, you have learned more about how blueprints are made, the process, and the equipment that is necessary. Well known brand names of diazo type copiers are Rotolite, Diazit, and ReproTechnology.
Monday, August 15, 2005
How to buy a Paper Trimmer
We are here to help you choose the best cutting tool to fit your application. There are however, three simple questions you should ask yourself when selecting a cutting product. The questions you should be asking yourself are;
1. What type of material will I be cutting? Paper, fabric, photographs, x-rays?.
2. How often will I be cutting this material? Daily, Weekly, Monthly?
3. What types of safety features do I need?
The answers to these three questions will help you help us recommend the best Paper Trimmer or Cutting Tool to fit your cutting needs.
Rolling Trimmers
Use a circular blade mounted to a horizontal bar which allows paper to be trimmed in both directions. This enhances the speed at which you can work if you plan to cut single sheets of material and at multiple times. Rolling Trimmers, also known as Rotary Trimmers, are also safe. They have a round rolling blade, or cutter, that is hidden from fingers and is relatively safe to use.
Cutters and Guillotines
Cutters and Guillotines use a lever style blade and are typically able to trim larger amounts of paper in a single cut. Keep in mind that these types of trimmers are not as safe as Rolling Trimmers since they do have a lever and require more force when cutting multiple sheets of material at once. Many models do offer safety features such as guards to help prevent accidents.
You may want to view the Dahle Cutter Selection Guide
Dahle produces some very high-quality products and are recommended by the EngineerSupply Product Team.
1. What type of material will I be cutting? Paper, fabric, photographs, x-rays?.
2. How often will I be cutting this material? Daily, Weekly, Monthly?
3. What types of safety features do I need?
The answers to these three questions will help you help us recommend the best Paper Trimmer or Cutting Tool to fit your cutting needs.
Rolling Trimmers
Use a circular blade mounted to a horizontal bar which allows paper to be trimmed in both directions. This enhances the speed at which you can work if you plan to cut single sheets of material and at multiple times. Rolling Trimmers, also known as Rotary Trimmers, are also safe. They have a round rolling blade, or cutter, that is hidden from fingers and is relatively safe to use.
Cutters and Guillotines
Cutters and Guillotines use a lever style blade and are typically able to trim larger amounts of paper in a single cut. Keep in mind that these types of trimmers are not as safe as Rolling Trimmers since they do have a lever and require more force when cutting multiple sheets of material at once. Many models do offer safety features such as guards to help prevent accidents.
You may want to view the Dahle Cutter Selection Guide
Dahle produces some very high-quality products and are recommended by the EngineerSupply Product Team.
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Document Hanging Clamps Explained
This document is to help you quickly understand how Hanging Clamps work. This document also explains Mobile File Centers and how they work in regards to Hanging Clamps.
Hanging Clamps that clamp and hold blueprints (or any large document) are very nice to have and use. They keep sets of drawings organized and readily available for reference. Hanging Clamps have also been known to be called "Drawing Sticks", "Plan Clamps", or "Plan Sticks" by those that work in the AEC (Architectural, Engineering, Construction) Industry.
Understanding Hanging Clamp Sizes
Selecting the size of hanging clamp you need is very simple. Hanging Clamps do not adjust their length, they only squeeze a set of drawings together to hold them together much like a binder would do. Hanging Clamps do clamp to the thickness of drawings (for example, you can clamp one drawing or 100 drawings in a clamp and the clamp itself will compensate for the thickness). But a hanging clamp will not adjust its length. Customers must purchase hanging clamps in the length that they plan to use. The size clamp you order is what you get, as the clamp will never adjust in length so consider the size of your drawings that you plan to clamp before buying any hanging clamp.
The size of your drawings that you plan to clamp is what drives the decision on which length clamp to purchase. Hanging Clamps come in lengths of 18", 24", 30", 36", or 42". If you plan to clamp a drawing (or set of drawings) that are say 24" x 36" sheet size dimension, you should consider buying a 24" hanging clamp and clamp the drawings from the 24" side of the drawing and let the 36" length of the drawing hang down towards the floor. Or, purchase a 30" hanging clamp, clamp the 24" side of your drawings, and leave some extra clamp overhang, meaning more clamp than you really need but you can also hang 30" drawings and 24" drawings on the same 30" clamp. Many people buy 30" clamps, and then hang 24" drawings, and 30" drawings from the same clamp.
One of the most popular size hanging clamps are the 30" clamps. The 30" length provides some extra room and "play" on each end when hanging a 24" side of a drawing. It also gives you the ability to hang various drawing sizes on the same clamp since a drawing or set of drawings do not have to fill up or use the entire length of a clamp.
Please note that most hanging clamps from any store are sold in cartons of six (6) clamps per carton. If you want twelve hanging clamps, then purchase 2 cartons. (2 cartons x 6 clamps per carton = 12 Hanging Clamps). Please double-check the quantity as "most" are sold in cartons of six, not all.
Click here to browse our selection of Hanging Clamps
Understanding Hanging Systems
Hanging Systems, are also known as "Blueprint Racks", "Blueprint Stands", "Hanging File Centers", and "Mobile File Centers". They are what hold and organize hanging clamps. Some hanging file centers have caster wheels so you can roll them about your office and relocate them closer to the person thats using the drawings for the day. Most mobile file centers hold about 12 clamps maximum, some hold 18, you have to read the description on each to make sure. Mobile File Centers are nothing more than a rack or rails that hold hanging clamps. Gravity holds the hanging clamps on some mobile file centers and some centers have a clip and the clamps snap into place. Please note that there's multiple types of file centers. Mobile centers are just that, as they have caster wheels to roll them with, and lock to keep from rolling. And some systems which do not touch the floor at all and are wall-mounted which are stationary. There's even a file center that hooks and hangs over a cubicle wall. But, the idea of a file center is the same, they all hold hanging clamps and keep your drawings off the floor and allow your drawings to hang vertically keeping them within easy reach and quick access.
This is one bit of information that you should understand about Mobile Stands: Some Mobile Stands will only hold one size of hanging clamps and others will hold varying sizes of clamps. The stands that will only hold a single size of clamps are the type that have two rails, one on each end that hold the hanging clamps up. The other type of mobile file center holds the hanging clamps by one end only, and these types of file centers will hold varying sizes of clamps all on the same file center.
Once a mobile stand is adjusted to a particular length of clamp to hold, that is the distance you leave it unless you re-adjust the stand to a different setting to hold another size later on. Please understand that a hanging clamp can hold different size drawings all on the same clamp since a clamp is nothing more than two lengths of metal that squeeze together when you twist the two wing knobs tightening the tee-bolts. But, some hanging file systems will only hold a single length of clamps. For example, some mobile file centers assemble so that they are set to hold only one length (for example 36" apart) of hanging clamps. Since a file centers rails are at a certain length apart, they will only hold one length of clamps. If a hanging file center is set up to hold 30" clamps, then it will only hold 30" clamps, not 24" as the 24" clamps are short enough to fall through the two rails of a hanging file center. Same goes with 36" hanging clamps, they are too long to fit onto a hanging file center that is set up to hold 30" clamps. Please note that only some hanging file centers are built like this. Some mobile file centers will accept multiple sizes of hanging clamps, you just need to read the product descriptions and it is of our recommendation to get a firm understanding of how this works before making a purchase.
Click here to browse our selection of Hanging File Centers
Summary
There you have it, an explanation of how Hanging Clamps and Hanging File Systems work. Basically, there's two parts to this, you buy a Hanging File System, find a place for it to be located in your office (either on the floor or wall depending on which type of system you buy), then buy one or two cartons of hanging clamps. Some people even buy multiple hanging systems, one stand for each project if you are a large firm and have many documents related to a single project. Once you have your system together, you can easily get organized and file your drawings and documents within quick and easy reach. If you want a more permanent or secured type of storage, you should consider flat file storage cabinets or building a plan file room, which are outside the scope of this document.
Hanging Clamps that clamp and hold blueprints (or any large document) are very nice to have and use. They keep sets of drawings organized and readily available for reference. Hanging Clamps have also been known to be called "Drawing Sticks", "Plan Clamps", or "Plan Sticks" by those that work in the AEC (Architectural, Engineering, Construction) Industry.
Understanding Hanging Clamp Sizes
Selecting the size of hanging clamp you need is very simple. Hanging Clamps do not adjust their length, they only squeeze a set of drawings together to hold them together much like a binder would do. Hanging Clamps do clamp to the thickness of drawings (for example, you can clamp one drawing or 100 drawings in a clamp and the clamp itself will compensate for the thickness). But a hanging clamp will not adjust its length. Customers must purchase hanging clamps in the length that they plan to use. The size clamp you order is what you get, as the clamp will never adjust in length so consider the size of your drawings that you plan to clamp before buying any hanging clamp.
The size of your drawings that you plan to clamp is what drives the decision on which length clamp to purchase. Hanging Clamps come in lengths of 18", 24", 30", 36", or 42". If you plan to clamp a drawing (or set of drawings) that are say 24" x 36" sheet size dimension, you should consider buying a 24" hanging clamp and clamp the drawings from the 24" side of the drawing and let the 36" length of the drawing hang down towards the floor. Or, purchase a 30" hanging clamp, clamp the 24" side of your drawings, and leave some extra clamp overhang, meaning more clamp than you really need but you can also hang 30" drawings and 24" drawings on the same 30" clamp. Many people buy 30" clamps, and then hang 24" drawings, and 30" drawings from the same clamp.
One of the most popular size hanging clamps are the 30" clamps. The 30" length provides some extra room and "play" on each end when hanging a 24" side of a drawing. It also gives you the ability to hang various drawing sizes on the same clamp since a drawing or set of drawings do not have to fill up or use the entire length of a clamp.
Please note that most hanging clamps from any store are sold in cartons of six (6) clamps per carton. If you want twelve hanging clamps, then purchase 2 cartons. (2 cartons x 6 clamps per carton = 12 Hanging Clamps). Please double-check the quantity as "most" are sold in cartons of six, not all.
Click here to browse our selection of Hanging Clamps
Understanding Hanging Systems
Hanging Systems, are also known as "Blueprint Racks", "Blueprint Stands", "Hanging File Centers", and "Mobile File Centers". They are what hold and organize hanging clamps. Some hanging file centers have caster wheels so you can roll them about your office and relocate them closer to the person thats using the drawings for the day. Most mobile file centers hold about 12 clamps maximum, some hold 18, you have to read the description on each to make sure. Mobile File Centers are nothing more than a rack or rails that hold hanging clamps. Gravity holds the hanging clamps on some mobile file centers and some centers have a clip and the clamps snap into place. Please note that there's multiple types of file centers. Mobile centers are just that, as they have caster wheels to roll them with, and lock to keep from rolling. And some systems which do not touch the floor at all and are wall-mounted which are stationary. There's even a file center that hooks and hangs over a cubicle wall. But, the idea of a file center is the same, they all hold hanging clamps and keep your drawings off the floor and allow your drawings to hang vertically keeping them within easy reach and quick access.
This is one bit of information that you should understand about Mobile Stands: Some Mobile Stands will only hold one size of hanging clamps and others will hold varying sizes of clamps. The stands that will only hold a single size of clamps are the type that have two rails, one on each end that hold the hanging clamps up. The other type of mobile file center holds the hanging clamps by one end only, and these types of file centers will hold varying sizes of clamps all on the same file center.
Once a mobile stand is adjusted to a particular length of clamp to hold, that is the distance you leave it unless you re-adjust the stand to a different setting to hold another size later on. Please understand that a hanging clamp can hold different size drawings all on the same clamp since a clamp is nothing more than two lengths of metal that squeeze together when you twist the two wing knobs tightening the tee-bolts. But, some hanging file systems will only hold a single length of clamps. For example, some mobile file centers assemble so that they are set to hold only one length (for example 36" apart) of hanging clamps. Since a file centers rails are at a certain length apart, they will only hold one length of clamps. If a hanging file center is set up to hold 30" clamps, then it will only hold 30" clamps, not 24" as the 24" clamps are short enough to fall through the two rails of a hanging file center. Same goes with 36" hanging clamps, they are too long to fit onto a hanging file center that is set up to hold 30" clamps. Please note that only some hanging file centers are built like this. Some mobile file centers will accept multiple sizes of hanging clamps, you just need to read the product descriptions and it is of our recommendation to get a firm understanding of how this works before making a purchase.
Click here to browse our selection of Hanging File Centers
Summary
There you have it, an explanation of how Hanging Clamps and Hanging File Systems work. Basically, there's two parts to this, you buy a Hanging File System, find a place for it to be located in your office (either on the floor or wall depending on which type of system you buy), then buy one or two cartons of hanging clamps. Some people even buy multiple hanging systems, one stand for each project if you are a large firm and have many documents related to a single project. Once you have your system together, you can easily get organized and file your drawings and documents within quick and easy reach. If you want a more permanent or secured type of storage, you should consider flat file storage cabinets or building a plan file room, which are outside the scope of this document.
About Electronic Planimeters
ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT ELECTRONIC PLANIMETERS
What is the difference between Roller & Polar Planimeters?
Roller planimeters are attached to wheels that allow unlimited horizontal travel and vertical travel within the limits of the arm movement. Polar planimeters are attached to a weighed base by and arm that allows movement with a circular area. Planix products contain identical electronics whether you choose roller or polar. Roller units offer more versatility.
What is the scale factor?
The scale factor is the x-scale multiplied by the y scale. (This must be computed when using the Planix 5 and the Planix 6 because they do not have a built-in scale computation.) The reading from the planimeter is then multiplied by this to obtain the area in the drawing.
What if the area I want to measure is larger than the reach of the planimeter arm?
All of the Planix instruments have a "hold and accumulate" feature. Subdivide the area to be measured into the smaller areas that are within the range of the unit. Measure each area pressing the hold key once to stop measurement and once again to initiate measurement once the planimeter is moved to the next area.
What direction should I move the tracer arm?
The tracer arm should be moved in a clockwise direction and returned to the original starting point. Moving the arm counterclockwise will give you a negative reading. This can be used to subtract smaller areas contained in larger ones. See instruction manual for details.
How accurate are the Planix planimeters?
Planix planimeters have a stated accuracy of 0.2% of the area measured. For accurate work, Planix recommends that the work be done slowly and carefully and the averaging function be used so that the final measurement will be the result of several measurements.
What is the difference between Roller & Polar Planimeters?
Roller planimeters are attached to wheels that allow unlimited horizontal travel and vertical travel within the limits of the arm movement. Polar planimeters are attached to a weighed base by and arm that allows movement with a circular area. Planix products contain identical electronics whether you choose roller or polar. Roller units offer more versatility.
What is the scale factor?
The scale factor is the x-scale multiplied by the y scale. (This must be computed when using the Planix 5 and the Planix 6 because they do not have a built-in scale computation.) The reading from the planimeter is then multiplied by this to obtain the area in the drawing.
What if the area I want to measure is larger than the reach of the planimeter arm?
All of the Planix instruments have a "hold and accumulate" feature. Subdivide the area to be measured into the smaller areas that are within the range of the unit. Measure each area pressing the hold key once to stop measurement and once again to initiate measurement once the planimeter is moved to the next area.
What direction should I move the tracer arm?
The tracer arm should be moved in a clockwise direction and returned to the original starting point. Moving the arm counterclockwise will give you a negative reading. This can be used to subtract smaller areas contained in larger ones. See instruction manual for details.
How accurate are the Planix planimeters?
Planix planimeters have a stated accuracy of 0.2% of the area measured. For accurate work, Planix recommends that the work be done slowly and carefully and the averaging function be used so that the final measurement will be the result of several measurements.
Wednesday, May 18, 2005
All About Blueprint Storage
We understand that you want to store your Blueprints safely and securely, but do want to have them organized for quick and easy reference and retrieval. What we will provide in this article are points for you to consider before you make a purchase. In many cases we cannot recommend a specific item due to; we have not seen your office space, have not seen number of workers in your organization, how the workers are situated such as on multiple floors of an office building, and do not know the number of prints you plan to store today and in the future. Our article will simply get your thought process started and hopefully point you in the right direction.
When seeking Blueprint Storage Solutions, you must first start by considering how many sheets and plan sets you have that you want to store. And, then consider how will your collection grow in the future. Will you have some storage solutions that offer quick retrieval but less protection? For example; a Blueprint Rack (also known as a Blueprint Stand) that is located near the people that use the plans the most. The stands offer quick access to hanging files where the hanging clamps can be removed easily and then laid on a workers desk, or laid out on a reference table. Think, it would not make sense to have a worker walk back to a storage room to pull drawings out of a steel flat file drawer that's located 50 feet away from their desk. So, you may want to mix your solution selection, such as; Hanging File Centers (again also known as Blueprint Racks or Stands) that would be located next to workers, but have Steel Flat Files located in a back room for archived or prints that are used less frequent.
Basic starting points to consider when seeking to organize your Blueprint Storage would be; do you want flat storage, rolled storage, permanent storage, locked storage. These are things to consider. Rolling drawings up takes time, but it does allow for them to be stood up on end beside a workers desk. Corrugated Upright Roll Files and Wire Upright Roll Files offer quick access right beside a workers desk.
We mentioned security such as locked storage previously in this article. Some companies either put locks on the drawers or either build a secure area which is typically called a "Plan Room". Depending on the volume of prints that need to be secured and the amount of space you have in your office, can dictate whether or not to build a Plan Room. Plan Rooms are great as they can have a locked door with all of your Flat Files located in a dedicated room within your office.
Something else you should consider is your investment in the plans you have. Some are prints from CAD files that you printed on a CAD Plotter. These prints can be printed again and again, even if you have a disaster such as a fire. As long as your drawing data is backed up by your computer network administrator, you should be fine. But, what if your drawings have notes, or have been hand-drawn, or what if they were the only available original drawings. Your drawings may have many many hours invested in them and as a result make the documents become very valuable and not easily replaced. Many Universities and Plants have the problem of having only originals that are available. Once these documents are gone, they are lost forever. In these cases, we recommend secured Plan Rooms with fire suppression (possibly not of the water type, you would have to learn more about fire suppression systems which is outside the scope of this document), and we recommend Steel Flat Files that secure the drawings and add a level of protection. Some Blueprint Cabinets even offer fire protection as one of their features. You would need to read more about what each cabinet has to offer and how these levels of protection work.
In summary, we have touched on various points of which you should consider before you make a purchase of a Blueprint Storage Solution. We would even recommend possibly getting a meeting together within your company to discuss what each user would want. Would some want Upright Roll Stands beside their desks, would some want to build a Plan Room. Does your documents need to be secured? There are many questions that you should ask yourself and others that will be using the storage solutions. Hopefully our document will help get your thoughts and questions started so that you will be satisfied once your solution is decided upon and plan put into effect.
Disclaimer; By reading this guide on our website, you agree to not hold anyone responsible for any misuse or misunderstandings that you may make. EngineerSupply.com does NOT assume any responsibility with providing this information.
When seeking Blueprint Storage Solutions, you must first start by considering how many sheets and plan sets you have that you want to store. And, then consider how will your collection grow in the future. Will you have some storage solutions that offer quick retrieval but less protection? For example; a Blueprint Rack (also known as a Blueprint Stand) that is located near the people that use the plans the most. The stands offer quick access to hanging files where the hanging clamps can be removed easily and then laid on a workers desk, or laid out on a reference table. Think, it would not make sense to have a worker walk back to a storage room to pull drawings out of a steel flat file drawer that's located 50 feet away from their desk. So, you may want to mix your solution selection, such as; Hanging File Centers (again also known as Blueprint Racks or Stands) that would be located next to workers, but have Steel Flat Files located in a back room for archived or prints that are used less frequent.
Basic starting points to consider when seeking to organize your Blueprint Storage would be; do you want flat storage, rolled storage, permanent storage, locked storage. These are things to consider. Rolling drawings up takes time, but it does allow for them to be stood up on end beside a workers desk. Corrugated Upright Roll Files and Wire Upright Roll Files offer quick access right beside a workers desk.
We mentioned security such as locked storage previously in this article. Some companies either put locks on the drawers or either build a secure area which is typically called a "Plan Room". Depending on the volume of prints that need to be secured and the amount of space you have in your office, can dictate whether or not to build a Plan Room. Plan Rooms are great as they can have a locked door with all of your Flat Files located in a dedicated room within your office.
Something else you should consider is your investment in the plans you have. Some are prints from CAD files that you printed on a CAD Plotter. These prints can be printed again and again, even if you have a disaster such as a fire. As long as your drawing data is backed up by your computer network administrator, you should be fine. But, what if your drawings have notes, or have been hand-drawn, or what if they were the only available original drawings. Your drawings may have many many hours invested in them and as a result make the documents become very valuable and not easily replaced. Many Universities and Plants have the problem of having only originals that are available. Once these documents are gone, they are lost forever. In these cases, we recommend secured Plan Rooms with fire suppression (possibly not of the water type, you would have to learn more about fire suppression systems which is outside the scope of this document), and we recommend Steel Flat Files that secure the drawings and add a level of protection. Some Blueprint Cabinets even offer fire protection as one of their features. You would need to read more about what each cabinet has to offer and how these levels of protection work.
In summary, we have touched on various points of which you should consider before you make a purchase of a Blueprint Storage Solution. We would even recommend possibly getting a meeting together within your company to discuss what each user would want. Would some want Upright Roll Stands beside their desks, would some want to build a Plan Room. Does your documents need to be secured? There are many questions that you should ask yourself and others that will be using the storage solutions. Hopefully our document will help get your thoughts and questions started so that you will be satisfied once your solution is decided upon and plan put into effect.
Disclaimer; By reading this guide on our website, you agree to not hold anyone responsible for any misuse or misunderstandings that you may make. EngineerSupply.com does NOT assume any responsibility with providing this information.
How to buy a Measuring Wheel
Measuring Wheels are great tools for the Appraiser, Estimator, Engineer, Architect,Contractor, Surveyor, Banker, Realtor, and anyone that is interested in measuring large distances in a short period of time. Most Measuring Wheels are for estimating and get fairly accurate, but we do recommend if you want ultimate accuracy you should consider a measuring tape and not a wheel. One thing to consider is measuring from against an object like a wall inside of a house for example. If you put the wheel against the wall and start rolling, you must add the distance of the radius of the wheel on both sides of the room. So, basically you add the diameter (radius x 2) to the distance you measured in order to measure from wall to wall.
There are basically two types of Measuring Wheels to choose from. There's the Mechanical type, and then the Electronic type. Here are some pros and cons of each;
MECHANICAL TYPE
Pros: Does not rely on batteries and is usually very simple to operate.
Cons: One Measuring Wheel typically offers a single unit of measure.
ELECTRONIC TYPE
Pros: Can handle multiple units of measure all in a single wheel.
Cons: Have to have batteries. What if your batteries die when in the field?
Other things to consider when shopping for a Measuring Wheel are;
PRICE
If you're concerned with cost of the product you're planning to buy, consider the useful life expectancy. You should consider the price being spread out over these years and not be as concerned with price in our opinion. We always think of the nice steak supper for $50 that lasts only a few hours. That's a good way to think about where your money is going.
INSIDE OR OUTSIDE
Will you be wanting to use your measuring wheel indoors or outdoors? Or possibly both places? If only inside use is planned, we would recommend a smaller wheel, possible dual-wheel model. If outdoors, you may consider a 10 inch or 12 inch model. If you're going to use for both indoors and outdoors, then maybe consider a 6 inch model. We are referring to the diameter, which is the distance from one side of the wheel to the other and traveling through the center of the wheel.
SIZE OF WHEEL
The size of the wheel can make the measuring task at hand easier if the size of the wheel matches what you plan to do with your wheel. Read our section of "Inside or Outside" and see how we recommend the various sizes of measuring wheels. Please note that the overall size of the unit is something to consider, as some measuring wheels handles even collapse to save space.
UNITS OF MEASURE
The units of measure that you will want is up to you to decide. Will you want to measure in feet and inches, meters and decimeters, or tenths and feet? These are examples of units of measure. Please consider that a mechanical wheel you will need to decide and purchase the product that meets the units of measure that you desire. If you're buying an electronic wheel, most of the electronic measuring wheels offer multiple units of measure you and can typically push a button to select which unit of measure you want to measure in. This setting can be switched to your liking depending on the measuring units you want to perform. This is a benefit of an electronic measuring wheel, however please remember the disadvantage of having batteries to rely upon.
WARRANTY
Most are one year, but you can find some with lifetime warranties. Something to possibly consider but most wheels last a very long time if properly cared for and used.
CARRYING CASE
You may want to consider buying a measuring wheel that comes with a carrying case, or possibly buying an optional case. Using a case will help keep dust and water off of your measuring wheel and allow it to last longer.
We recommend taking the time to think about what you want to accomplish with a measuring wheel. Then, putting your criteria in ranking order before you make the purchase. Disclaimer; By reading this guide on our website, you agree to not hold anyone responsible for any misuse or misunderstandings that you may make. EngineerSupply.com does NOT assume any responsibility with providing this information.
There are basically two types of Measuring Wheels to choose from. There's the Mechanical type, and then the Electronic type. Here are some pros and cons of each;
MECHANICAL TYPE
Pros: Does not rely on batteries and is usually very simple to operate.
Cons: One Measuring Wheel typically offers a single unit of measure.
ELECTRONIC TYPE
Pros: Can handle multiple units of measure all in a single wheel.
Cons: Have to have batteries. What if your batteries die when in the field?
Other things to consider when shopping for a Measuring Wheel are;
PRICE
If you're concerned with cost of the product you're planning to buy, consider the useful life expectancy. You should consider the price being spread out over these years and not be as concerned with price in our opinion. We always think of the nice steak supper for $50 that lasts only a few hours. That's a good way to think about where your money is going.
INSIDE OR OUTSIDE
Will you be wanting to use your measuring wheel indoors or outdoors? Or possibly both places? If only inside use is planned, we would recommend a smaller wheel, possible dual-wheel model. If outdoors, you may consider a 10 inch or 12 inch model. If you're going to use for both indoors and outdoors, then maybe consider a 6 inch model. We are referring to the diameter, which is the distance from one side of the wheel to the other and traveling through the center of the wheel.
SIZE OF WHEEL
The size of the wheel can make the measuring task at hand easier if the size of the wheel matches what you plan to do with your wheel. Read our section of "Inside or Outside" and see how we recommend the various sizes of measuring wheels. Please note that the overall size of the unit is something to consider, as some measuring wheels handles even collapse to save space.
UNITS OF MEASURE
The units of measure that you will want is up to you to decide. Will you want to measure in feet and inches, meters and decimeters, or tenths and feet? These are examples of units of measure. Please consider that a mechanical wheel you will need to decide and purchase the product that meets the units of measure that you desire. If you're buying an electronic wheel, most of the electronic measuring wheels offer multiple units of measure you and can typically push a button to select which unit of measure you want to measure in. This setting can be switched to your liking depending on the measuring units you want to perform. This is a benefit of an electronic measuring wheel, however please remember the disadvantage of having batteries to rely upon.
WARRANTY
Most are one year, but you can find some with lifetime warranties. Something to possibly consider but most wheels last a very long time if properly cared for and used.
CARRYING CASE
You may want to consider buying a measuring wheel that comes with a carrying case, or possibly buying an optional case. Using a case will help keep dust and water off of your measuring wheel and allow it to last longer.
We recommend taking the time to think about what you want to accomplish with a measuring wheel. Then, putting your criteria in ranking order before you make the purchase. Disclaimer; By reading this guide on our website, you agree to not hold anyone responsible for any misuse or misunderstandings that you may make. EngineerSupply.com does NOT assume any responsibility with providing this information.
How to buy a Magnetic Locator
Buying a Magnetic Locator is a decision that many surveyors and municipal employees decide to make. It seems most purchases are based on someone seeing the product used by another department or someone that has been on the job for a long time.
The need for a magnetic locator is usually to locate ferrous objects under ground, under water, or in snow. Objects such as PK nails, iron pipes, buried metal objects, valve covers, masonry nails, manhole covers, wires, cast iron water and gas lines, valve boxes, septic tanks and well casings, and surveyors' markers.
Survey markers or pins are such a strong magnetic target that almost any magnetic locator will find them. Therefore a customer has to look at other factors in determining which locator is the best to buy.
Things to consider when buying a locator would be;
1. Do you need a case? If yes, a hard or soft case?
2. Do you need a visual indicator, such as an LCD?
3. Do you need a headphones (in case you are in a noisy area and need to hear the locators sound better)? If yes, get a locator with a headphone jack. (*See the negative side of using headphones below).
4. Battery life and battery level indicators.
5. Sound level adjustment knobs.
6. Size of the locator itself. Do you need one that collapes?
7. Cost.
8. Warranty.
9. Weight of the locator. How long will you have to carry it around?
10. Initial Cost of the purchase.
EngineerSupply.com sells brands of magnetic locators like; Dunham & Morrow, Schonstedt, Subsurface Instruments, and CST (Chicago Steel Tape) Survey. All of these locators are professional grade instruments and are built to withstand the rigors of aggressive environments. We do recommend taking care of your magnetic locator since it is an electronic device. Return your locator to it's case after each use is a great way to help protect your investment.
PRICE
If you're concerned with cost of the locator you're planning to buy, consider the useful life expectancy. Some locators are used for twenty or thirty years by some surveyors. We have seen some surveyors with locating instruments that last them their entire career. You should consider the price being spread out over these years and not be as concerned with price in our opinion. We always think of the nice steak supper for $50 that lasts only a few hours. Thats a good way to think about where your money is going.
WARRANTY
The Dunham & Morrow Magnetic Locators come with a Lifetime Warranty. The Schonstedt's warranty's vary from model to model. The Schonstedt Model GA-52Cx comes with a 7-year Warranty and the Model GA-72Cd comes with a 5-year Warranty. The CST Magna-Trak's come with a 5-year Warranty.
*HEADPHONES
The use of headphones when operating a locator is considered to be dangerous due to the user cannot hear other sounds on a construction site, or in near highways. We do not recommend using headphones. If you do, it would be something to consider where and when you are using them.
The need for a magnetic locator is usually to locate ferrous objects under ground, under water, or in snow. Objects such as PK nails, iron pipes, buried metal objects, valve covers, masonry nails, manhole covers, wires, cast iron water and gas lines, valve boxes, septic tanks and well casings, and surveyors' markers.
Survey markers or pins are such a strong magnetic target that almost any magnetic locator will find them. Therefore a customer has to look at other factors in determining which locator is the best to buy.
Things to consider when buying a locator would be;
1. Do you need a case? If yes, a hard or soft case?
2. Do you need a visual indicator, such as an LCD?
3. Do you need a headphones (in case you are in a noisy area and need to hear the locators sound better)? If yes, get a locator with a headphone jack. (*See the negative side of using headphones below).
4. Battery life and battery level indicators.
5. Sound level adjustment knobs.
6. Size of the locator itself. Do you need one that collapes?
7. Cost.
8. Warranty.
9. Weight of the locator. How long will you have to carry it around?
10. Initial Cost of the purchase.
EngineerSupply.com sells brands of magnetic locators like; Dunham & Morrow, Schonstedt, Subsurface Instruments, and CST (Chicago Steel Tape) Survey. All of these locators are professional grade instruments and are built to withstand the rigors of aggressive environments. We do recommend taking care of your magnetic locator since it is an electronic device. Return your locator to it's case after each use is a great way to help protect your investment.
PRICE
If you're concerned with cost of the locator you're planning to buy, consider the useful life expectancy. Some locators are used for twenty or thirty years by some surveyors. We have seen some surveyors with locating instruments that last them their entire career. You should consider the price being spread out over these years and not be as concerned with price in our opinion. We always think of the nice steak supper for $50 that lasts only a few hours. Thats a good way to think about where your money is going.
WARRANTY
The Dunham & Morrow Magnetic Locators come with a Lifetime Warranty. The Schonstedt's warranty's vary from model to model. The Schonstedt Model GA-52Cx comes with a 7-year Warranty and the Model GA-72Cd comes with a 5-year Warranty. The CST Magna-Trak's come with a 5-year Warranty.
*HEADPHONES
The use of headphones when operating a locator is considered to be dangerous due to the user cannot hear other sounds on a construction site, or in near highways. We do not recommend using headphones. If you do, it would be something to consider where and when you are using them.
CASES
Some customers have stated they like the soft case better than the hard case. You need to ask yourself if you want a case, and if so, what type. Some cases have shoulder straps that makes carrying the case in the field easier.
OPTIONS AND SIZE
If you are looking for a locator that is easy to carry in the field, we recommend the Schonstedt MAC-51Bx if you want magnetic & cable locating abilities. The MAC-51Bx has optional accessories that can enable it to do a few more tasks than other locators. We have had many satisfied customers that have purchased the Dunham & Morrow brand of locator. It all depends on what you want to do and where you will carry your locator.
Some recommend that you contact the manufacturer every five or so years and have your locator calibrated and/or tested, especially if you are locating UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) or Weapons. Some manufacturers say that the need for calibration is unnecessary so its really a decision to be made by the customer if this type of maintenance is needed.
We recommend taking the time to think about what you want to accomplish with a magnetic locator. Then, putting your criteria in ranking order before you make the purchase.
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